I’ve never done anything but dream. This, and this alone, has been the meaning of my life. My only real concern has been my inner life. FERNANDO PESSOA

Sunday, 19 August 2007

Epiphany At Orrest Head



Saturday 11 August. In brief. Grasmere: Breakfast at Miller Howe café - where there's an Internet connection. Cotswold Rock Bottom Outdoors shop - bought bargain Teva sandals for £19. Wordsworth family graves in churchyard. Wordsworth's Dove Cottage, where he lived before Rydal Mount. Didn't go in. Ambleside: 3 bookshops - Wearings, Henry Roberts, Good Book Place. Went in. Also Public Library with Internet. No really outstanding pubs but The Golden Rule on Kirkstone Pass road is good "local" drinking pub - no bar meals, no pool, no music. Brotherswater (just south of Patterdale): walked from here to High Hartsop Dodd and back in rain. At spot by lake party had left beer cans, soft drinks bottles, plastic bags and, inexplicably, 2 perfectly good towels. Why do people have to leave rubbish in one of the most beautiful places in England? Beats me. Kirkstone Pass Inn: great pub dating from 1496. Windermere: circular walk taking in Orrest Head, where it all happened for Wainwright. Having visited his resting place on Haystacks earlier this year, thought it only proper I should pay tribute here too (see photos). Rain stopped. Great Langdale Camp Site: Uncle Ben's Express flavoured rice with diced-up vine tomatoes and boiled eggs. Yum. Watery sunset. Early night. Funny how it's much more exhausting on days when you're not climbing the big stuff!

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