I’ve never done anything but dream. This, and this alone, has been the meaning of my life. My only real concern has been my inner life. FERNANDO PESSOA

Sunday, 23 November 2008


Next day I caught a bus to Lescar. Nowadays Lescar lies stranded among the retail parks and dormitory suburbs of Pau, but in former, more illustrious times, it was a significant Roman city.

Above the main entrance of the Romanesque Cathedral of Notre-Dame de Lescar I noticed some remarkable 12th century herringbone-patterned brickwork; and inside the sanctuary found some perfectly preserved mosaics of hunting scenes - including this archer with a wooden leg:

At 9 o'clock the next morning I made my way downhill from the pilgrim refuge. Skirting the ramparts of the old cité, I passed under the stone arch of one of the city gates, then came across this brasserie with some early-morning customers drinking beer outside. It was much too early in the day for me to consider even the remotest possibility of alcoholic refreshment, so I moved quickly on ...

... registering this rather over-the-top little roundabout as I took the road westwards to the river, the Gave de Pau ...

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