Saturday 11 August. In brief. Grasmere: Breakfast at Miller Howe café - where there's an Internet connection. Cotswold Rock Bottom Outdoors shop - bought bargain Teva sandals for £19. Wordsworth family graves in churchyard. Wordsworth's Dove Cottage, where he lived before Rydal Mount. Didn't go in. Ambleside: 3 bookshops - Wearings, Henry Roberts, Good Book Place. Went in. Also Public Library with Internet. No really outstanding pubs but The Golden Rule on Kirkstone Pass road is good "local" drinking pub - no bar meals, no pool, no music. Brotherswater (just south of Patterdale): walked from here to High Hartsop Dodd and back in rain. At spot by lake party had left beer cans, soft drinks bottles, plastic bags and, inexplicably, 2 perfectly good towels. Why do people have to leave rubbish in one of the most beautiful places in England? Beats me. Kirkstone Pass Inn: great pub dating from 1496. Windermere: circular walk taking in Orrest Head, where it all happened for Wainwright. Having visited his resting place on Haystacks earlier this year, thought it only proper I should pay tribute here too (see photos). Rain stopped. Great Langdale Camp Site: Uncle Ben's Express flavoured rice with diced-up vine tomatoes and boiled eggs. Yum. Watery sunset. Early night. Funny how it's much more exhausting on days when you're not climbing the big stuff!