A Walk In The White Peak

The Peak District has two distinct areas and personalities: the Dark Peak in the north, which is all about cloughs and groughs, moorland and millstone grit; and the White Peak in the south, with its softer landscape of limestone villages and dales, of crystal-clear rivers and streams. This geological yin-yang aspect to the National Park creates a satisfying contrast and complementarity. Last week I walked on the wild side in the Dark Peak; yesterday, in the White Peak, I explored my more feminine side. I began my walk in the village of Hartington, which lies by the exquisitely-named River Dove.  

In the woodland of Beresford Dale butterbur grew tall between path and river. Other plants included buttercup and herb-robert and, growing in the river itself, water-crowfoot.

Wooden footbridges hardly ever fail to seduce me. However, I resisted the charms of this one, which led into Wolfscote Dale. I remembered I'd crossed it before — 25 years ago. Instead, I left the river and climbed gently up the dry valley of Narrow Dale. I don't think many walkers come here, and I had only wheatears and redstarts for company.

On the limestone plateau above the dale some field paths and a quiet road took me to the sleepy village of Alstonefield.

The pub was not yet open, but I was content to eat my sandwiches and drink from my flask of coffee on a bench on the village green. (Sandwich filling: egg, onion and cheddar cheese mayonnaise — an absolute favourite!)

Leaving Alstonefield and its stone, slate-roofed cottages, I followed a delightful path — lined with a multitude of wild flowers such as the bright-blue meadow crane's-bill — to the top of Gipsy Bank.

Here Coldeaton Dale joins Biggin Dale. 

I thought the view from the top of the bank was very fine. You can see Coldeaton Bridge below — and that's the river Dove again.

The meandering riverside path eventually led me to the head of Biggin Dale, where a foot and cycle-way curved over the hill and back to Hartington.

This is Hartington Hall. A country gentleman's retreat, you might think — or perhaps a five-star hotel? No, not at all. It's a youth hostel! Could this be the most beautiful youth hostel in the world? And it's got a bar . . .

It had been a really great walk, and it was with reluctance I left this limestone paradise. The Peak District is the National Park I know the best: for long periods of my life I've lived in Staffordshire, Lincolnshire and Nottinghamshire — all within easy reach of this outstanding, lovely region.