Ragù Alla Bolognese: The Real Thing

This is the ultimate authentic recipe for spaghetti bolognese or, as we have now learnt to call it, ragù alla bolognese. It's based on America's Test Kitchens' recipe via Cook's Illustrated (thanks, Ruth!) and also on Antonio Caluccio's classic recipe. First, transform your kitchen into cool monochrome (optional)...

Then assemble from left to right some pancetta (I used English streaky bacon), some minced pork and beef, some tomato paste (I used tomato purée), some chicken stock (I happened to have some real, homemade chicken stock — yum!), a mirepoix of finely chopped carrot, celery and onion, salt and pepper, some fresh egg tagliatelle, a glass of red wine, some butter and a wedge of Parmesan cheese (I know Romano and Grana Padano are less expensive, but you can't beat the salty depth of Parmigiano in this dish).

Gently fry the pancetta, carrot, celery and onion in butter for 10 min, then added the minced meats and fry for a further 10 min. Add the wine, reduce, stir in some stock and the tomato paste. Simmer for 1 and a half hours, adding more stock when the mixture becomes dry. Season if necessary (I found it needed hardly any seasoning). Remember: no garlic, no herbs, no canned tomatoes! Cook the tagliatelle for a few minutes in boiling water until al dente, drain and combine with the sauce. Sprinkle liberally with Parmesan.

Enjoy with a glass of red wine, preferably Italian. You'll find the tagliatelle winds easily round a fork so no spoon necessary! This is a fabulous, utterly satisfying dish, of a rich, deep flavour. It kept me happy all evening.