For my part, I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to move. ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON

Saturday, 4 October 2014

Day 29: Besançon To Ornans

It was a steep climb out of Besançon. I was yearning for the countryside again after two nights in the city.

View of Besançon from Chapelle des Buis.

The Franciscan church in Chapelle des Buis. The interior was one of the most beautiful and tranquil and human-friendly I'd yet seen. In the sanctuary was a plain altar carved from a stone block, a modern cross suspended from the ceiling, and a green and black wall hanging of abstract design. The main body of this small church contained a simple horseshoe of seats. I liked it very much, and spent some time there. 

Via Francigena signs were quite rare, so I photographed them when I could.

A Maison Forestière.

An old tile works. 

The road followed the limestone gorge of the river Loue to the pretty little town of Ornans, birthplace of the painter Gustave Courbet. It was here that I bumped into Peter again. We pitched our tents on the campsite and had supper in a pizza restaurant (with an authentic wood-fired oven) overlooking the river. We told our stories and caught up on all the news. Peter had come an alternative, pleasanter way to Ornans — through the woods on a cycle track, rather than on the main road. 

Église Saint-Laurent in Ornans.

A house typical of the Loue valley — the large arched doorway enabled easy access for a horse and cart.

5 comments:

The Weaver of Grass said...

Nothing to say other than don't want it to end.

Ruth Mowry said...

Too bad you missed the wooded path. Ornans is charming! No wonder Courbet came from there.

George said...

Yes, Ornans is very charming, and I agree with Pat. Don't want this to end. Get thee back to the Via Francigena!

Susan Scheid said...

This is such a wonderful walk. I love the old tile works. Well, I love it all.

The Solitary Walker said...

Thanks for reading, everyone, and I'm glad you are all enjoying the account. I'm enjoying reliving it immensely.

There was also Courbet gallery, but I didn't go in. He kept returning to Ornans for long periods and painted various well-known beauty spots many times. He is most famous for this:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/L%27Origine_du_monde