For my part, I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to move. ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON

Sunday, 5 October 2014

Day 30: Ornans To Ouhans

Early next morning we struck camp and left Ornans along the bank of the river Loue. Part of the route followed the bed of an old railway track. Twice we had to scramble over blocked tunnels — one of the tunnels was being used to store cheese!  

As well as cows and lavoirs, you'll have noticed I also have a thing about wall shrines . . .

After 10 km we reached the quaint riverside settlement of Lods. By this time we'd met young Pierre, a pilgrim who'd walked all the way from Paris. He was to become our companion for the next few days.

The path now climbed away from the river and contoured high above the valley. We passed through vineyards and rocky pasturage, disturbing the odd goat . . .

We were in no rush, and stopped frequently to enjoy the magnificent views of wooded slopes and limestone cliffs.


A damp alleyway in the delightful hillside village of Mouthier-Haute-Pierre. Here were many traditional mountain dwellings, with arched doorways below and balconies above, and roofs overhanging neat stacks of chopped firewood.

Niched wall shrine in Mouthier-Haute-Pierre.

Now began one of the most memorable and exciting afternoons of the whole trip: tracking the dramatic limestone gorge of the river Loue up to its source. It was just fantastic. The rocky path twisted and turned, rising higher and higher above the gorge. This was walking at its most sublime. My picture shows Peter taking a photo of the river, which lies many hundreds of feet below in a chasm to the right.

I think you can tell I'm loving every minute of this amazing walk . . .

The source of the river Loue. This spectacular limestone amphitheatre reminded me of Malham Cove in the Yorkshire Dales.

5 comments:

Ruth Mowry said...

Shutters, shrines and stone. Simply fabulous!

George said...

Great photos! I especially love the ones of Lods and Mouthier-Haute-Pierre.

The Solitary Walker said...

It was a fabulous day.

dritanje said...

Another rhyming title! Like the others, I am also enjoying this so much - and as you did too of course. The 'all roads lead to Rome' sign, the roofscapes and the climb up the rocky cliff above the river - I've noticed in France that on steep climbs they put ropes you can hold onto to help pull you along and prevent you from falling off the sides into gorges. Very thoughtful.

Thought you were very courageous sleeping out that night and hearing the stags roaring. I think I would have fled in terror. Thank you!

The Solitary Walker said...

I can't tell you how much I'm enjoying it too, Dritanje!

Those ropes were quite handy when crossing that slippery stream over the gorge.