A common man marvels at uncommon things. A wise man marvels at the commonplace. CONFUCIUS
Showing posts with label Leon. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Leon. Show all posts

Thursday, 7 February 2008

Season Of Mists





In Leon my travelling companion Laurent branched north to Oviedo. This was a variation on the usual pilgrim route to Santiago - longer, wilder and more arduous. He had always planned to do this. I set off westwards and alone through the suburbs of Leon in the direction of Astorga.

It took me 3 days to walk the 54 km to Astorga. I didn't rush. The countryside gradually turned slightly less cultivated, slightly hillier, slightly more wooded. I passed sepulchral groves of holm oak and fir. In one village I ate the luscious red fruits of a madrone tree which were scattered liberally over the pavement.

A highlight of these 3 days was the bridge over the rio Órbigo (1st pic) - one of the longest and oldest medieval bridges in Spain.

The imaginative economy of the nesting stork is clearly demonstrated in the 2nd pic...

... and my 3rd pic shows one of the many pilgrim resting places or relaxation areas which are to be found all along the Camino. This one was very unusual, though...

From the Cruceiro de Santo Toribio (4th pic) you can see, I'm told, on a clear day, the lovely old Roman city of Astorga and the fertile plain before it...

Wednesday, 6 February 2008

Leon




I arrived in Leon early on the afternoon of 3 December - it was only 19 km from Mansilla - and left at lunchtime the next day, so had plenty of time to explore the city. I spent the night in the Hostal San Martin which was cheap, clean, and situated at the top of a winding staircase in the old quarter close to the cathedral.

Leon, former capital of the kingdom of Castile and present day capital of the Castilla y Leon region, has a population of 140,000. It was originally called Legio Septima in Roman times - because the 7th legion was stationed here. It's a lively, relaxed place full of good tapas bars and restaurants. I didn't eat out at many restaurants on the Camino - but here I did, and the salads, and steaks with deep-fried potatoes, were exceptionally good.

I paid a visit to most of Leon's famous buildings and monuments: the Guzman Palace (see 1st photo), former home the Guzmans, one of Leon's wealthiest families; Gaudi's neo-Gothic Casa de Botines (there's a similar Gaudi structure in Astorga - but that comes later!); the wonderful Romanesque Basilica of San Isidoro - apart from the cathedral, this was my favourite building, with its amazing Puerte del Pardon (Door of Forgiveness) and its royal burial vaults (Pantheon Real) containing the tombs of 11 Spanish kings, 12 Spanish queens and 23 Spanish princes, and its extraordinary frescoes; and the Renaissance Convento de San Marcos with its intricately carved 16th century facade adorned with scallop shells and other pilgrim motifs. This monastery - former home to the Knights of the Order of Santiago - is now a luxurious parador hotel, but the museum part you can look round, and I passed a long time in there. The 2nd photo shows the cloister garden. The 3rd photo, of the pilgrim statue, was taken in the Plaza San Marcos in front of the monastery.

Then of course there's Leon's crowning glory: the stunning 13th century Gothic cathedral with its breathtaking stained glass windows, its cloisters, and its towers and steeples - all of which are individual and unmatched.

Tuesday, 5 February 2008

Love Affair




Leon! Wonderful, magical city! I walked there on 3 December from the old, walled town of Mansilla de las Mullas where I'd met up with 3 more pilgrims in the albergue: Sebastiane from Mallorca, Marco from Italy and Philippe from Luxembourg. They had formed a strongly bonded pilgrim group. I saw them all again eating lunch in a restaurant on the outskirts of Leon.

Leon! I liked it the instant I saw it spread out before me from the hill above. You know how you can get an immediate, spontaneous gut-feeling about a place? Well, I got that about Leon. As I wove my way down the lively streets it turned into a full-blown love affair. There was an indefinable quality about Leon I can't adequately put into words. Its haphazard mélange of styles - Roman, medieval, Renaissance, Gaudi, modern - somehow all worked. The raffish charm of Leon crept into your heart in a way the civic magnificence of Burgos didn't. Burgos was the dutiful wife. But Leon the abandoned lover.

The photos show the splendour of Leon's Gothic cathedral.