Day 30: Ornans To Ouhans

Early next morning we struck camp and left Ornans along the bank of the river Loue. Part of the route followed the bed of an old railway track. Twice we had to scramble over blocked tunnels — one of the tunnels was being used to store cheese!  

As well as cows and lavoirs, you'll have noticed I also have a thing about wall shrines . . .

After 10 km we reached the quaint riverside settlement of Lods. By this time we'd met young Pierre, a pilgrim who'd walked all the way from Paris. He was to become our companion for the next few days.

The path now climbed away from the river and contoured high above the valley. We passed through vineyards and rocky pasturage, disturbing the odd goat . . .

We were in no rush, and stopped frequently to enjoy the magnificent views of wooded slopes and limestone cliffs.

A damp alleyway in the delightful hillside village of Mouthier-Haute-Pierre. Here were many traditional mountain dwellings, with arched doorways below and balconies above, and roofs overhanging neat stacks of chopped firewood.

Niched wall shrine in Mouthier-Haute-Pierre.

Now began one of the most memorable and exciting afternoons of the whole trip: tracking the dramatic limestone gorge of the river Loue up to its source. It was just fantastic. The rocky path twisted and turned, rising higher and higher above the gorge. This was walking at its most sublime. My picture shows Peter taking a photo of the river, which lies many hundreds of feet below in a chasm to the right.

I think you can tell I'm loving every minute of this amazing walk . . .

The source of the river Loue. This spectacular limestone amphitheatre reminded me of Malham Cove in the Yorkshire Dales.

Day 29: Besançon To Ornans

It was a steep climb out of Besançon. I was yearning for the countryside again after two nights in the city.

View of Besançon from Chapelle des Buis.

The Franciscan church in Chapelle des Buis. The interior was one of the most beautiful and tranquil and human-friendly I'd yet seen. In the sanctuary was a plain altar carved from a stone block, a modern cross suspended from the ceiling, and a green and black wall hanging of abstract design. The main body of this small church contained a simple horseshoe of seats. I liked it very much, and spent some time there. 

Via Francigena signs were quite rare, so I photographed them when I could.

A Maison Forestière.

An old tile works. 

The road followed the limestone gorge of the river Loue to the pretty little town of Ornans, birthplace of the painter Gustave Courbet. It was here that I bumped into Peter again. We pitched our tents on the campsite and had supper in a pizza restaurant (with an authentic wood-fired oven) overlooking the river. We told our stories and caught up on all the news. Peter had come an alternative, pleasanter way to Ornans — through the woods on a cycle track, rather than on the main road. 

Église Saint-Laurent in Ornans.

A house typical of the Loue valley — the large arched doorway enabled easy access for a horse and cart.